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Garment Specifications Part I
Today, fashion means “ready-to-wear.” But this is a relatively new development in the history of apparel. Until the 20th century, clothing was nearly always tailored to the wearer. Women’s clothing was usually made by draping cloth directly on the woman’s body, pinning, cutting, basting (stitching), and, later, using this as a construction pattern. Similarly, today, designers will often make a ‘toile’, or prototype garment, in an inexpensive fabric such as unbleached cotton that can be fit on a dummy or model and altered.
Dummies come in both male and female body shapes and are sized according to standard garment sizes. However, it will be worth noting that sizes will vary from one clothing company to another, so that one designer’s size 11 may be equivalent to another company’s size 12. Consequently many designers now make the measurements for each size available so that customers are able to measure themselves and find their correct size.
Once the designer is pleased with the garment design its measurements can be taken and sent to the manufacturer. Or the garment can be unstitched and separated into individual pattern pieces. In this case, each piece is laid flat and traced onto paper or card to make a permanent pattern. These are usually stored in large envelopes – one for each garment – with a ‘spec sheet’ attached to the outside, so that the designer can readily identify each garment.
Spec sheets will include a technical illustration of the flat garment, with garment specifications such as measurements, fabrics, trims, and buttons or zippers to be used, and which season or collection it was designed for. You can find clothing spec sheet templates, along with information on how to create and distribute these to manufacturers, on The Fashion Business Center CD here: http://www.startingaclothingline.com/html/the_fashion_business_center_cd.html.
When measuring a garment, make sure the buttons or zipper is closed. Lay it flat on your worktable and smooth out any creases or folds. Thin, stretchable fabrics can be laid on top of a large sheet of heavy cotton, so that it doesn’t slip or stretch during the process of measuring (usually with a plastic measuring tape).
Measurements can be taken from different points on the garment, and some designers might include a ‘how to measure’ guide when they send the spec sheet to their manufacturer. However, a center front (denoted ‘CF’) and center back (‘CB’) will always be included in the technical details. These extend the length of the garment, vertically, at the center point (half way between the two sides, or center of the neck). Horizontal markers, such as the bust/chest and waist, will intersect with these.
If measuring a shirt, blouse, or jacket, etc., the chest/bust is measured from side to side, usually one inch below the armholes at the side seams. The waist is measured in the same way, except lower down at the narrowest point of the garment. On a skirt, dress, or pants, the hips are usually measured about eight inches below the waist. When measuring the armhole, the measuring tape is stood on its side so that it can be curved along the seam. Measure from the top, at the shoulder seam, down to the bottom, at the side seam. Record all the details on your spec sheet, and send it to the manufacturer.
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